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Article on Calcutta: By Vir Sanghvi

Most modern Indian cities strive to rise above ethnicity. Tell anybody who lives in Bombay that he lives in a Maharashtrian city and (unless of course, you are speaking to Bal Thackeray) he will take immediate offence. We are cosmopolitan, he will say indigenously. Tell a Delhiwalla that his is a Punjabi city (which, in many ways, it is) and he will respond with much self-righteous nonsense about being the nation’s capital, about the international composition of the city’s elite etc. And tell a Bangalorean that he lives in a Kannadiga city and you’ll get lots of techno-gaff about the internet revolution and about how Bangalore is even more cosmopolitan than Bombay.

But, the only way to understand what Calcutta is about, is to recognize that the city is essentially Bengali. What’s more, no Bengali minds you saying that. Rather, he is proud of the fact. Calcutta’s strengths and weaknesses mirror those of the Bengali character. It has the drawbacks: the sudden passions, the cheerful chaos, the utter contempt for mere commerce, the fiery response to the smallest provocation. And it has the strengths (actually, I think of the drawbacks as strengths in their own way). Calcutta embodies the Bengali love of culture; the triumph of intellectualism over greed; the complete transparency of all emotions, the disdain with which hypocrisy and insincerity are treated; the warmth of genuine humanity; and the supremacy of emotion over all other aspects of human existence.

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That’s why Calcutta is not for everyone. You want your cities clean and green; stick to Delhi. You want your cities, rich and impersonal, go to Bombay. You want them high-tech and full of draught beer, Bangalore’s your place. But if you want a city with a soul, come to Calcutta.

When I look back on the years I’ve spent in Calcutta – and I come back so many times each year that I often feel I’ve never been away – I don’t remember the things that people remember about cities. When I think of London, I think of the vast open spaces of Hyde Park. When I think of New York, I think of the frenzy of Times Square. When I think of Tokyo, I think of the bright lights of Shinjiku. And when I think of Paris, I think of the Champs Elysee. But when I think of Calcutta, I never think of any one place. I don’t focus on the greenery of the maidan, the beauty of the Victoria Memorial, the bustle of Burra Bazar or the splendour of the new Howrah ‘Bridge’. I think of people. Because, finally, a city is more than bricks and mortars, street lights and tarred roads. A city is the sum of its people. And who can ever forget -or replicate – the people of Calcutta?

When I first came to live here, I was told that the city would grow on me. What nobody told me was that the city would change my life. It was in Calcutta that I learnt about true warmth; about simple human decency; about love and friendship; about emotions and caring; about truth and honesty. I learnt other things too. Coming from Bombay as I did, it was a revelation to live in a city where people judged each other on the things that really mattered; where they recognized that being rich did not make you a better person – in fact, it might have the opposite effect. I learnt also that if life is about more than just money, it is about the things that other cities ignore; about culture, about ideas, about art, and about passion. In Bombay, a man with a relatively low income will salt some of it away for the day when he gets a stock market tip. In Calcutta, a man with exactly the same income will not know the difference between a debenture and a dividend. But he will spend his money on the things that matter. Each morning, he will read at least two newspapers and develop sharply etched views on the state of the world. Each evening, there will be fresh (ideally, fresh-water or river) fish on his table. His children will be encouraged to learn to dance or sing. His family will appreciate the power of poetry. And for him, religion and culture will be in inextricably bound together.

Ah religion! Tell outsiders about the importance of Puja in Calcutta and they’ll scoff. Don’t be silly, they’ll say. Puja is a religious festival. And Bengal has voted for the CPM since 1977. How can godless Bengal be so hung up on a religions festival? I never know how to explain them that to a Bengali, religion consists of much more than shouting Jai Shri Ram or pulling down somebody’s mosque. It has little to do with meaningless ritual orsinister political activity.The essence of Puja is that all the passions of Bengal converge: emotion, culture, the love of life, the warmth of being together, the joy of celebration, the pride inartistic ex-pression and yes, the cult of the goddess.

It may be about religion. But is about much more than just worship. In which other part of India would small, not particularly well-off localities, vie with each other to produce the best pandals? Where else could puja pandals go beyond religion to draw inspiration from everything else? In the years I lived in Calcutta, the pandals featured Amitabh Bachchan, Princes Diana and even Saddam Hussain! Where else would children cry with the sheer emotional power of Dashimi, upset that the Goddess had left their homes? Where else would the whole city gooseflesh when the dhakis first begin to beat their drums? Which other Indian festival – in any part of the country – is so much about food, about going from one roadside stall to another, following your nose as it trails the smells of cooking?

To understand Puja, you must understand Calcutta. And to understand Calcutta , you must understand the Bengali. It’s not easy. Certainly, you can’t do it till you come and live here, till you let Calcutta suffuse your being, invade your bloodstream and steal your soul. But once you have, you’ll love Calcutta forever. Wherever you go,a bit of Calcutta will go with you. I know, because it’s happened to me. And every Puja, I am overcome by the magic of Bengal. It’s a feeling that’ll never go away.

(Originally published on Hindustan Times)

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  • shahzeb


  • Anirban Bhaumik

    true in all respects..

  • Puneet

    Well written!
    Calcutta is like that abandoned monument that used to be a symbol of glorious progression of India..but now all that remains of it are the dirty walls where every bengali takes a piss in the morning and the hollow & meaningless pride in the same. The city is a perfect example of how backward politics can ruin a progressive community. The people might feel proud of their political views, but the happiness with which they live in that filth and feel proud of their laziness to change anything…is repulsive to say the least!Every time I get to go to Calcutta..there’s just one word that is resonated in everything that exists there – Stuck!!!

  • I agree with you more than the original author. I lived in Calcutta for more than 3 years and my experience and outlook has different ingredients as opposed to the foreign hailed Mr “rich” Sangvi. He likes Calcutta because it is the only place where value for money is down the drain. I am a foodie myself; Kolkatians are good in one variety,i.e. bengali food and nothing else. I have not written anything till now because I fear my hard true observation will be masqueraded as a hatred, which I don’t want. I have some very good Bong friends, real good.

  • Arindam

    Dear friend, before giving such comments ,please check once more. I am doubtful that any city in India has a variety of foods like Calcutta.If you were unable to find it ,try once more.I have not found such variety of mughlai foods in any other city than Calcutta. And every city has it’s uniqueness in fooding. I spent more than 5 years in Bangalore and six years in Delhi. Dear friend it’s a metro. And every city has their own problems.As a city it has a huge contribution in Indian economy.Small town cannot realize the culture of a metro.

  • VenkatChari

    It is true that there is a rich variety of foods in Calcutta. But most of them contain fish dishes also. But their sweets are great! Lots of varieties of sweet dishes. But some Bengalis, outside of Bengal are very proud and do not mingle with others and are suspicious of others as per my experience, when I was in U.P. in cement factory colony.

  • Minisha

    I’m of Kolkata. This article is fabulous! It touched my heart.

  • durlav

    i’m not from kolkata , but had a chance to live in kolkata for 6 mnths .
    this is article is very true and fabulous.

  • zhb

    Yes, one can get sentimental about the place,e.g. the old Ambassador taxis still plying on the streets, but you get rudely awakened out of that romanticised crap when you meet those very incompetent and provincial people working at the airport. Give me a big-hearted Punjabi who’s always ready to pull up his sleeves and get his hands dirty, over a Proust-spouting intellectual who doesn’t want to get his hands dirty even to help others.

  • malsie91

    It is precisely the whole “Bengali” thing which is doing Calcutta in in the end. Calcutta used to be a cosmopolitan city- there were jews, Armenians, etc., but now all that is left is the homogenous bengali culture. As a result, when it comes to attitude, Calcutta is little more than a small provincial backwater town where nothing gets done and nobody achieves anything.

  • abc

    You cannot live outside the city and experience Kolkata. Only when you have lived there can you know what a soulful city truly is….very well written article.

  • PS

    every city has got it’s own soul which comprises of its own people. Kolkata is not beyond any other city in that way. It’s dirty and chaotic save for a few places made by the Brits.

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