French designer Jean Paul Gaultier turned his headquarters into a rehearsal studio Tuesday, sending out a dance-inspired spring collection driven by his recent collaboration with a top choreographer.

The ready-to-wear show in Paris opened with a trio of dancers twirling across the catwalk, setting the stage for a parade of wraparound jersey dresses that, once untied, transformed into elegant swimsuits with capes attached to the neck.

“To me, clothes on a hanger are simply still lives. It’s only when someone wears them that they come alive,” Gaultier told reporters after the show. “Here, the idea was to create clothes that have several uses. You can go for a swim, you can also go out and it turns into a dress.”

Gaultier has been designing the costumes for “Snow White,” a new show from choreographer Angelin Preljocaj, and said he was fascinated by the way dancers twisted and draped their clothes.

It wasn’t the first time he has incorporated athletic wear into his creations, but some ideas worked better than others.

A cream linen shirt worn like a crossover cardigan looked chic with a draped jersey wrap skirt, but a ribbed bodysuit worn over pinstriped pants produced an awkward bulge at the crotch.

At a time when buyers are being particularly cautious, Gaultier avoided gimmicks to deliver a collection with strong commercial appeal.

Christophe Caillaud, president of Jean Paul Gaultier, said the tough retail environment meant sales at the brand would grow very modestly this year in comparison with 2007.

“If we do see growth, it won’t be very high. It won’t be two figures,” he told The Associated Press.

Despite the uncertain outlook, the company is expanding in emerging markets, where demand for luxury goods is growing. Gaultier recently opened its first store in India in the southeastern city of Bangalore, and has two more boutiques planned in Mumbai and New Delhi.